Camino Primitivo

Camino Arrow 321 km – 13 stages (+ last 2 on the Camino Francés to Santiago)

Camino Primitivo

On the Northern Way, arriving at a small village of Casquita there is an option to continue on the Northern Way to Gijón, or to continue the journey on The Primitivo Way, to Oviedo. El Camino Primitivo will lead you through the inlands of Asturias and Galicia via the gorgeous city of Lugo. It continues its way to the South, joining the French Way in Melide. It’s the first Camino ever known to Santiago de Compostela. Travelled by Alfonso II el Castro in the IX century to visit the recently discovered tomb of the Apostle Santiago.

The map includes the pre-stage coming from the Camino del Norte, with the start icon indicating the point where pilgrims can continue their way on the Northern route, or turn to the Camino Primitivo.

In the tab ‘Stages’ you will find the stages as shared on the Eroski site. We found them to be very accurate on the lengths. They also have very complete and nicely written narratives on each part, however, the narratives are in Spanish. If you want to read (also very nice) descriptions of each part in English you can use the interactive map above from elcaminosantiago.com. Just click on the symbol in the upper right corner: open map symbol. It will open up the interactive map in Google Maps and you’ll be able to zoom in and click on any way mark. This will open up a small window where you can read the narratives created by elcaminosantiago.com. Great resource!

If daily stages of more than 15/20 km are simply not your cup of tea, just look at the itinerary in each stage and choose your daily endpoints. You can use the name of those locations to search for a place to stay (see tab ‘Where to stay’). In addition, please remember: most people do not walk the French Way in one ‘holiday’. They simply take one or a couple of stages each time they have some time off. Take it easy – not everyone needs to walk 800 km to discover their true self…

In the tab ‘Where to start’ you will find information on the most common (and less common) places to start, including some information on how to get there.

Stage 1 Oviedo – San Juan de Villapañada

30,5 km – 5 albergues

Km 0: Oviedo (All services)

Km 4,6: San Lázaro de Paniceres (Bar)

Km 7,1: Llampaxuga

Km 8,8: La Bolguina (Bar)

Km 12,7: El Escamplero (Albergue, Bar, Shop)

Km 17: Premoño

Km 18,1: Valduno (150 mt desviado del Camino) (Bar-Shop)

Km 19,7: Paladín

Km 22: L’Arache (Bar)

Km 22,9: Peñaflor

Km 25,8: Grado (All services)

Km 30,5: San Juan de Villapañada (Albergue)

Camino Primitivo Stage 1

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Stage 2 San Juan de Villapañada – Salas

20,2 km – 3 albergues

Km 0: San Juan de Villapañada (Albergue)

Km 2,3: Collado de El Fresno

Km 3,6: San Marcelo

Km 5,2: La Doriga (Bar, Albergue)

Km 7,9: Cornellana (All services)

Km 9,5: Sobrerriba

Km 10,7: Alto de Santa Eufemia

Km 12,4: Llamas

Km 14,8: Quintana

Km 16,5: Casazorrina

Km 18,8: Mallecín

Km 20,2: Salas (All services)

Camino Primitivo Stage 2

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Stage 3 Salas – Tineo

20,2 km – 4 albergues

Km 0: Salas (All services)

Km 5,9: Porciles

Km 7,8: Bodenaya (Albergue)

Km 8,9: La Espina (Albergue, Bars, Shops, Pharmacy, ATM)

Km 10: La Pereda

Km 12,8: El Pedregal

Km 16,9: Santa Eulalia

Km 20,2: Tineo (All services)

Camino Primitivo Stage 3

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Stage 4 Tineo – Pola de Allande

28,2 km – 4 albergues

Km 0: Tineo (All services)

Km 7,5: Piedratecha

Km 11: Villaluz

Km 13,9: Campiello (Bars, Shop, Albergue)

Km 16,8: Borres (Bars, Shop, Albergue)

Km 18,7: Samblismo

Km 19,7: La Mortera

Km 21,7: Colinas de Arriba

Km 23: Porciles (Bares)

Km 25,2: Lavadoira

Km 27,2: Ferroy

Km 28,2: Pola de Allande (All services)

Camino Primitivo Stage 4

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Stage 5 Pola de Allande – La Mesa

22,8 km – 4 albergues

Km 0: Pola de Allande (All services)

Km 3,2: Desvío Albergue de Peñaseita (Albergue, Bar)

Km 5,3: La Reigada

Km 8,8: Puerto del Palo (1.146 mt)

Km 10,5: Montefurado

Km 14,5: Lago (Bar)

Km 18,2: Berducedo (Albergues, Bars, Shop)

Km 22,8: La Mesa (Albergue)

Camino Primitivo Stage 5

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Stage 6 La Mesa – Grandas de Salime

16,8 km – 1 albergue

Km 0: La Mesa (Albergue, Shop, seasonal opening)

Km 2,3: Buspol

Km 10: Embalse de Salime (Hotel-Bar-Restaurant at 1 km)

Km 16,8: Grandas de Salime (All services)

Camino Primitivo Stage 6

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Stage 7 Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada

28,1 km – 4 albergues

Km 0: Grandas de Salime (All services)

Km 3,2: Cereixeira (Bars)

Km 5,5: Castro (Bar-Restaurant-Albergue, Hotel)

Km 7,9: Gestoselo

Km 10,1: Peñafonte

Km 14,5: Venta del Acebo (Bar-Shop)

Km 16,5: Cabreira

Km 18,6: Fonfría

Km 20,2: Barbeitos (Tavern)

Km 21,9: Ermita de Santa Bárbara-Silvela

Km 24,4: Paradanova

Km 26,3: A Fonsagrada (All services)

Km 28,1: Padrón (Albergue)

Camino Primitivo Stage 7

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Stage 8 Fonsagrada (Padrón) – O Cádavo Baleira

23,4 km – 1 albergue

Km 0: Padrón (Albergue)

Km 3,2: Vilardongo

Km 6: Montouto

Km 7,3: Hospital de Montouto

Km 10,9: Paradavella (Bars)

Km 13,4: A Degolada

Km 15,8: A Lastra (Bar)

Km 18,6: Fontaneira (Bar)

Km 23,4: O Cádavo Baleira (All services)

Camino Primitivo Stage 8

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Stage 9 O Cádavo Baleira – Lugo

30,5 km – 4 albergues

Km 0: O Cádavo Baleira (All services)

Km 2,2: Alto da Vaqueriza

Km 6,2: Vilabade

Km 8,6: Castroverde (All services)

Km 9,9: San Miguel do Camiño

Km 12,5: Souto de Torres

Km 15: Vilar de Cas (Soda and Snacks machine)

Km 17,6: Gondar (Soda, Coffee, Snacks and Sandwiches machine)

Km 24,5: As Casas da Viña (Bar at a couple of km)

Km 28,4: Castelo

Km 30,5: Lugo (All services)

Camino Primitivo Stage 9

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Stage 10 Lugo – San Romao da Retorta

19,7 km – 2 albergues

Km 0: Lugo (All services)

Km 2,3: San Lázaro (Bars)

Km 7,5: Seoane

Km 9,9: San Vicenzo do Burgo (Bar)

Km 13,5: Bacurín

Km 17,7: Taboeiro (Tavern with traditional Galician dishes at 250 m at the crossingpoint to Crecente)

Km 18,8: San Romao da Retorta (Tavern)

Km 19,7: Castrelo (Albergues)

Camino Primitivo Stage 10

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Stage 11 San Romao da Retorta – Melide

27,7 km – 9 albergues

Km 0: San Romao da Retorta (Castrelo) (Albergues)

Km 3,1: O Burgo de Negral

Km 7,5: O Carballal (Albergue)

Km 10,9: San Xurxo de Augas Santas

Km 13: As Seixas (Albergue, Bar)

Km 14,6: Casacamiño (Rural hotel, Bar)

Km 15,8: Hospital de As Seixas (Casa de Mapi offers shelter)

Km 19: Vilouriz

Km 22,1: Irago de Arriba (Bar)

Km 27,7: Melide (All services)

Camino Primitivo Stage 11

Continue on the final stages of the Camino Francés.

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Booking.com

OUR PRIMARY SOURCE: BOOKING.COM

We always use booking.com. There are good things and less good things to say about this site, but the downsides are related to their very broad customer population (you get a lot of hostels in the results that are no way within walking distance. You can apply some filtering based on amount of km from the city center however.

There is one big advantage for us: the map on their site. Once you entered the name of the village (or nearest bigger city) and hit search you’ll get an overview of (lots of!) places to stay. If you scroll a bit down, you’ll see a little map. Click on it, and it will open up a bigger and interactive map with all the locations. Just look near where you are (don’t forget to zoom in to see more locations!), review the info, chose a place to stay and the best part: book it online and you’ll be sure to have a place to stay that night.

We didn’t book ahead (only when we were nearing Santiago as it was getting very busy in all albergues so we knew the hostels would get full soon too). However, it was nice to pull up the app of booking.com during breakfast and estimating where we would end up that day and to have some alternative plan B in case our first choice were to be fully booked.

They also have a filter you can apply to search for e.g. only inns, or… rural houses.We like to get comfortable once in a while…

Here’s an impression of their map for a search on ‘Arzúa’.Booking.com results for Arzúa on the French Way

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Google Maps

Occasionally, booking.com will not have many hostels near you because there are of course lots of small hostels that are not yet on booking.com. This seems to be the case with the example location we chose: Arzúa.

In this situation, we visit googlemaps.com, type a search for ‘hostels in [name of location]’ – Google will suggest immediately a ‘hostels near xxx’. Hit search and you’ll get the results.

Here’s an impression of their map for a search on ‘Arzúa’:

GoogleMaps results for Arzúa on the French Way

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Turgalicia

Once you are in Galicia, the best way to find places to stay is turgalicia.es (English version).

They are the official tourist information site by the local government (Junta de Galicia, in Gallego ‘Xunta de Galicia’). Obviously, it’s their duty to provide this information and being listed on that site is important and free for hostel owners.

This is how their site looks. In the right menu bar you should click ‘Municipalities’ and check the ones you need to search: for the Camino Francés that might be Lugo or La Coruña, where that route runs through. Once checked off the boxes, hit ‘accept’ in the municipality window and search in the same right menu.

use of turgalicia english site

Once you get the results page, hit the button ‘Map’ in the left upper corner menu.

Here’s an impression on their map search for places to stay in Arzúa – it not only gives an additional 10+ places to stay (you will need to zoom in) but it also indicates very well what type of lodging it is (rural houses are the nice green ones) and in the menu above the map you will find many more interesting things (things to see, things to do, etc). Needless to say you can click on each hit and get more information about the hostel.

Turgalicia results for Arzúa on the French Way

This is as far as we want to go with lists of albergues. If you really want a list to print-out, we can recommend you to visit the site of Eroski consumer, they also have pdf’s available, although like I said, the complete narratives are in Spanish. Here’s the direct link to the albergues..

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Oviedo

The best place to start is the beginning: you don’t want to miss Oviedo!

You can either fly directly to Oviedo or take the train from any major city in Spain.

For more information, we recommend the resource pages of Eroski: you can navigate the subpages with their menu  on the right where you can check out all common starting points: caminodesantiago.consumer.es

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Lugo - final 100k

If you want to walk the final part of the Camino Primitivo you can start in Lugo. The last 2 stages of the Camino Primitivo will lead you to Melide, where you can continue your trail on the Camino Francés.

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